Allora ho deciso :faccio ats verticale, 30cm x 15 cm la rete, 3 watt x 10 di led rossi solo un lato.
Santamonica, la pompa quanti litri per ora???

Water flow is 60 lph per cm of width. Therefore, 15 cm width = 900 liter per hour.

santamonica, se il ats lo faccio dentro la vasca creando con dei vetri neri una zona dove l'acqua entra a cascata e poi con una pompa la spinge in vasca???
posto un disegno

http://s27.postimg.cc/yk5u7my27/P_20140910_004854.jpg

Sì, si può fare una cascata, o una bolla verso l'alto.

Bene !! Ho ordinato led , driver e dissipatore.... il vetro va bene se lo faccio spesso 5nn??

5 millimeter? Yes

santamonica, il filtro UAS fa crecere alghe sul vetro della vasca dove c'è la luce?
o solo sulla rete dove arriva l'aria??
------------------------------------------------------------------------
dove posso comprare la pietra per il filtro UAS??

A beneficio di chi cerca la rete, io l'ho trovata nella ferramenta sotto casa e credo vada bene, basta chiedere in qualsiasi idraulica la rete utilizzata per la copertura delle cassette water installate a muro, ne esistono con maglie di varie dimensioni.

http://www.tecnocalorfrasca.it/image...berit_rete.jpg

Mi scuso per non vedere la vostra risposta precedente .. come sta andando ora?

~SF

santa monica, il https://public.sheet.zoho.com/public...lculator-xls-1 non funziona, puoi caricarlo in altro server???

Sì, il collegamento appare spezzato. Chiederò alla persona che lo ha fatto.

OK....thanks

Inviato dal mio K920 utilizzando Tapatalk

Anche in questo caso, mi spiace per l'inglese...


Advanced Aquarist Feature Article for December 2013: Coral Feeding: An Overview
http://www.advancedaquarist.com/2013/12/aafeature


The picture in the article shows that in the 1000 litre test tank:

98% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 2 coral colonies
71% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 40 coral colonies
92% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 2 coral colonies, when skimming is cut in half
55% of the food particles go to the skimmer when there are 40 coral colonies, when skimming is cut in half


"This trade-off between food availability and water quality can be circumvented by using plankton-saving filtration systems, which include [...] algal turf scrubbers"

"Corals are able to feed on a wide range of particulate organic matter, which includes live organisms and their residues and excrements (detritus)."

"...bacteria [...] can be a major source of nitrogen."

"...when dry fish feeds or phytoplankton cultures are added to an aquarium, a part of this quickly ends up in the collection cup of the skimmer.

"...mechanical filters (which can include biofilters and sand filters) result in a significant waste of food."

"Detritus is a collective term for organic particles that arise from faeces, leftover food and decaying organisms. Detrital matter is common on coral reefs and in the aquarium, and slowly settles on the bottom as sediment. This sediment contains bacteria, protozoa, microscopic invertebrates, microalgae and organic material. These sedimentary sources can all serve as coral nutrients when suspended, especially for species growing in turbid waters. Experiments have revealed that many scleractinian corals can ingest and assimilate detritus which is trapped in coral mucus. Although stony corals may ingest detritus when it is available, several gorgonians have been found to primarily feed on suspended detritus."

"Dissolved organic matter (DOM) is an important food source for many corals. [...] scleractinian corals take up dissolved glucose from the water. More ecologically relevant, corals can also absorb amino acids and urea from the seawater"

Santamonica, I am writing in English for you.
I am planning to build a filter using one of the two overflow connecting the tank to the sump. I will have quite a big waterflow, the tow of them support more than 1200lt/h.
I will use a very simple design. I will use an horizontal pipe with the cut in the middle end the net located in the cut as usually. As my sump has a very high side glasses, I will use that to protect the lights. Out of the sump I will locate some impermeable strips (it is not really needed, but safety first). I will use red led-stripes.
With this design I can have light only on one side of the net, I know is not the best... :(
How large should the net be?
How many Watts?

My tank is about 300l and has many problems of phosfate and nitrate. I think I am not overfeeding but maybe I do!

With 1200 lph total (600 lph each overflow), you can make the screen 12 cm wide. It will be about 20 cm high, to touch the water below.

It can use 10 to 20 watts red LED on one side.

Thanks, I am going to try that and I will let you know about the results!

Grande video che mostra come a DIY un ATS base...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qGLnBvDkaO0

Santamonica, le dimensioni per ATS uas come devo calcolare??

Inviato dal mio K920 utilizzando Tapatalk

Mi dispiace molto, non ho visto questo. Ecco raccomandazione, in inglese:

Scrubbers are sized according to feeding. Nutrients "in" (feeding) must equal nutrients "out" (scrubber growth), no matter how many gallons or liters you have. So...

An example VERTICAL upflow or waterfall screen size is 3 X 4 inches = 12 square inches of screen (7.5 X 10 cm = 75 sq cm) with a total of 12 real florescent watts (not equivalent watts) of light, or half that for LEDs, for 18 hours a day. If all 12 watts (6 watts LED) are on one side, it is a 1-sided screen. If the watts are divided on each side of the screen, it is a 2-sided screen. This should be able to handle the following amounts of daily feeding:

1 frozen cube per day (2-sided screen), or
1/2 frozen cube per day (1-sided screen), or
10 pinches of flake food per day (2-sided screen), or
5 pinches of flake food per day (1-sided screen), or
10 square inches (60 sq cm) of nori per day (2-sided screen), or
5 square inches (30 sq cm) of nori per day (1-sided screen), or
0.1 dry ounce (2.8 grams) of pellet food per day (2-sided screen), or
0.05 dry ounce (1.4 grams) of pellet food per day (1-sided screen)

Problem rocks: Each 50 pounds (2.2 kg) of nuisance algae covered rocks you have adds 1 cube a day.

Flow or air bubbles is always 24 hours; water flow is at least 35 gph per inch of width of screen [60 lph per cm], EVEN IF one sided or horizontal.

FLOATING SURFACE SCRUBBERS WITH STRINGS: Screen size is the size of the box (Length X Width), and is 2-sided because the strings grow in 3D.

Clean algae:

Every 7 to 14 days, or
When it's black, or
When it fills up, or
When algae lets go, or
When nutrients start to rise

What do all algae (and cyano too) need to survive? Nutrients. What are nutrients? Ammonia/ammonium, nitrite, nitrate, phosphate and urea are the major ones. Which ones cause most of the algae in your tank? These same ones. Why can't you just remove these nutrients and eliminate all the algae in your tank? Because these nutrients are the result of the animals you keep.

So how do your animals "make" these nutrients? Well a large part the nutrients comes from pee (urea). Pee is very high in urea and ammonia, and these are a favorite food of algae and some bacteria. This is why your glass will always need cleaning; because the pee hits the glass before anything else, and algae on the glass consume the ammonia and urea immediately (using photosynthesis) and grow more. In the ocean and lakes, phytoplankton consume the ammonia and urea in open water, and seaweed consume it in shallow areas, but in a tank you don't have enough space or water volume for this, and, your other filters or animals often remove or kill the phytoplankton or seaweed anyway. So, the nutrients stay in your tank.

Then, the ammonia/ammonium hits your rocks, and the periphyton on the rocks consumes more ammonia and urea. Periphyton is both algae and animals, and is the reason your rocks change color after a few weeks from when they were new. Then the ammonia goes inside the rock, or hits your sand, and bacteria there convert it into nitrite and nitrate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

Also let's not forget phosphate, which comes from solid organic food particles. When these particles are eaten by microbes and clean up crews, the organic phosphorus in them is converted into phosphate. However, the nutrients are still in your tank.

So whenever you have algae or cyano "problems", you simply have not exported enough nutrients out of your tank compared to how much you have been feeding (note: live rock can absorb phosphate for up to a year, making it seem like there was never a problem. Then after a year, there is a problem).

So just increase your nutrient exports. You could also reduce feeding, and this has the same effect, but it's certainly not fun when you want to feed your animals :)